Leave-on facial emulsion compositions

ABSTRACT

Disclosed are leave-on facial emulsion compositions that are substantially free from fats and oils and anionic surfactants, which provide improved control of sebum distribution over the surface of the skin. These compositions provide improved cosmetic benefits in terms of the control of the undesirable appearance and tactile sensation of oily skin.

TECHNICAL FIELD

The present invention relates to leave-on facial emulsion compositionscontaining cationic surfactants, and which are also substantially freefrom fats and oils and anionic surfactants, useful for improving theappearance of the skin by controlling the distribution of sebum upon theskin surface.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Sebum, or skin oil, is produced in the sebaceous glands located in thepilosebaceous apparatus of the skin and reaches the skin surface throughthe duct of the hair follicles. The presence of excessive amounts ofsebum on the skin surface often results in an unattractive cosmeticcondition commonly known as "oily skin". Sebum also plays an importantrole in the pathogenesis of acne. Sebaceous gland activity issignificantly increased in acne subjects, and individuals with the mostsevere acne often have the highest sebum secretion rates.

The spreading of sebum on the skin surface is thus an important cosmeticparameter since its distribution on the skin surface can determine theappearance of oiliness or greasiness and can contribute to the severityof acne.

It is advantageous, therefore, to have available means for controllingthe distribution of sebum over the surface of human skin, withparticular regard to skin characterized by an excessive secretion orpresence of sebum upon the surface and to affected skin areas of, forexample, acne patients.

Currently marketed leave-on facial emulsion products do not effectivelycontrol the distribution of sebum upon the surface of the skin. Withoutbeing limited by theory, it is believed that current leave-on emulsionproducts undesirably modify the surface properties of the skin, therebyincreasing the contact angle of the sebum with the skin and thuspreventing its spreading. These products cause the secreted sebum toremain as small discreet droplets upon the skin, thus resulting in oilyskin and its attendant problems.

Typically, the problem of oily facial skin has been dealt with byfrequent cleansing and the use of astringent preparations. However, suchremedies are of questionable efficacy and not always practical, and alsohave the disadvantage of drying, irritating, and abrading the skin.Additionally, any benefits which may be obtained through cleansing andthe use of astringents are only temporary. Once the skin has beencleansed of sebum, the skin begins secreting sebum anew so that the oilyskin problem soon returns.

The prior art teaches the incorporation of clays, talcs, silicas,starches, polymers, and other such materials into skin care products forabsorbing sebum and controlling oily skin. See U.S. Pat. No. 4,940,578,Yoshihara, T. et al., issued July 10, 1990; U.S. Pat. No. 4,885,109, toUmemoto, I. et al., issued Dec. 5, 1989; U.S. Pat. No. 4,536,399, toFlynn, R. G. et al., issued Aug. 20, 1985; U.S. Pat. No. 4,489,058, toLay, G. E. et al., issued Dec. 18, 1984; U.S. Pat. No. 4,388,301, toKlein, R. W., issued June 14, 1983; and U.S. Pat. No. 4,000,317, toMenda, W. C. et al., issued Dec. 28, 1976. However, the practicality ofincorporating sebum absorbing materials is limited by the sebumabsorbing capacity of the material, formulation difficulties, and thenegative aesthetic properties which these materials impart to finishedproducts. Also, any oil control benefit which may be obtained is merelytemporary.

A longer lasting method of reducing sebum on the skin is through the useof topical or systemic agents believed to provide a sebosuppressiveeffect. See Karg, G. et al., "Sebosuppression", Cosmetics & Toiletries.vol. 102, pp. 140-146 (April 1987); U.S. Pat. No. 4,593,021, to Hsia, S.L. et al., issued June 3, 1986; U.S. Pat. No. 4,587,235, to Bittler, D.et al., issued May 6, 1986; U.S. Pat. No. 4,529,587, to Green, M. R.,issued July 16, 1985; ; U.S. Pat. No. 4,210,654 to Bauer et al., issuedJuly 1, 1980; and U.S. Pat. No. 4,016,287, to Eberhardt et al., issuedApr. 5, 1977. Without being limited by theory, it is believed thatsebosuppressive agents decrease the sebum output of the pilosebaceousducts of the skin, thereby reducing surface oiliness. However, manysebosuppressive agents are potent drugs having undesirable side effectson diuretic activity, inflammation mediators, blood pressure, hormonallevels, cholesterol synthesis, and other bodily functions. Thus, it maynot always be practical, desirable, or even possible to utilizesebosuppressive agents to control oily skin.

The control of sebum spreading via topical formulations which do notcontain sebosuppressive agents is described in Australian PatentApplication 8,319,558 to Herstein et al., published Apr. 12, 1984. Thispatent discloses formulations for use on oily skin such as cleansers,shampoos, and anti-acne treatments, which contain γ-gluconamidopropyldimethyl 2-hydroxyethyl ammonium chloride. However, these formulationshave the undesirable characteristic of increasing the contact angle ofsebum with the skin and inhibiting the even spreading and distributionof the sebum. Also, none of the formulations disclosed are leave-onemulsion type lotions or creams.

Furthermore, in addition to the limitations of the prior art discussedabove, most currently marketed emulsion products actually contribute toand aggravate oily skin problems. Most emulsion products areoil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions containing high levels of fatsand oils. The high levels of fats and oils in these products give themtheir characteristic heavy and greasy aesthetics and contribute to oilyskin problems. The limited number of products which claim to be freefrom fats and oils are usually not emulsion type products, but insteadare low viscosity, hydro-alcoholic formulations which are too harsh andastringent for regular or frequent use.

Other cosmetic compositions are disclosed in, for example, in U.S. Pat.No. 4,837,019 to Georgalas et al., issued June 16, 1989 and also in U.S.Pat. No. 4,863,725 to Deckner et al., issued Sept. 5, 1989, both ofwhich are incorporated by reference herein.

Therefore, it would be highly desirable to develop leave-on facialemulsion compositions which overcome the disadvantages of the prior art.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to provide leave-onfacial emulsion compositions which reduce the oily appearance and greasyfeel of facial skin. It is another object of the present invention toprovide compositions for controlling the distribution of sebum upon theskin surface. It is still another object of the present invention toprovide compositions which are aesthetically pleasing and substantiallyfree from fats and oils and anionic surfactants. It is yet anotherobject of the present invention to provide compositions for controllingsebum distribution without incorporating oil-absorbing materials. It isa further object of the present invention to provide compositions forcontrolling sebum distribution without using sebosuppressive drugagents. It is an even further object of the present invention to providecompositions which reduce the contact angle between sebum and skin. Itis yet a further object of the present invention to provide compositionswhich distribute sebum evenly across the surface of the skin. It isanother object of the present invention to retard the regreasing of theskin by sebum. It is yet another object of the present invention toprovide methods for reducing the oily appearance and greasy feel offacial skin.

These and other objects of this invention will become apparent in lightof the following disclosure.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention relates to a leave-on facial emulsion composition,substantially free from fats and oils and anionic surfactants,comprising: (a) from about 0.01 to about 5% of a cationic surfactant;(b) from about 0.01 to about 5% of one or more of a carboxylic acidcopolymer; (c) from about 1% to about 10% of a humectant; and (d) acosmetically acceptable carrier; wherein said composition has a surfacetension between about 18 dynes/cm and about 40 dynes/cm and saidcomposition provides a contact angle between sebum and skin from 0° toabout 10°.

The present invention further relates to methods for controlling thedistribution of sebum on facial skin.

Ingredients are identified by chemical or CTFA name.

All percentages and ratios used herein are by weight unless otherwiseindicated.

All measurements are at 25° C. unless otherwise indicated.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

The term "leave-on", as used herein to modify the term "facial emulsioncomposition", is used to indicate that the compositions of the presentinvention are intended to be applied to and allowed to remain on theskin. These leave on compositions are to be distinguished fromcompositions which are applied to the skin and subsequently removedeither by washing, rinsing, wiping, or the like.

The term "substantially free from fats and oils" is defined as meaningthat the compositions of the present invention do not containingredients that are typically considered by those skilled in the art toconstitute a fat and/or oil ingredient. Strictly speaking, fats aredefined as naturally occurring esters of long chain carboxylic acids andglycerin, i.e. glyceryl fatty acid esters. Fats which are liquids atroom temperature are commonly defined as oils. These definitions forfats and oils are described in Streitwieser and Heathcock, Introductionto Organic Chemistry pp. 506-509 (1976), this publication incorporatedherein by reference.

The term "substantially free from anionic surfactants" means that thecompositions of the instant invention contain less than about 1% of ananionic surfactant, and preferably do not contain any anionicsurfactant.

Contact Angle

The contact angle is defined as the internal angle between a surface anda liquid droplet resting on that surface. High contact angles correspondto poor wetting of the surface by the liquid, while low contact anglessignify good wetting. If a liquid spreads on the surface, the contactangle is considered to be zero and complete wetting is said to occur.Contact angle measurements can be employed to determine the wettabilityof human skin by a variety of liquids. These contact angles vary from 0°for highly lipophylic materials such as mineral oil to 108° for waterand can be measured using a variety of techniques. See Rosenberg, A. etal. "Interaction Forces Involved in Wetting of Human Skin," Journal ofPharmaceutical Sciences. vol. 62, no. 6, pp. 920-921 (June 1973);Schott, H. "Contact Angles and Wettability of Human Skin", Journal ofPharmaceutical Sciences. vol. 60, no. 12, pp. 1893-1895 (December 1971);and Rosen, M. J. Surfactants and Interfacial Phenomena. second edition,pp.244- 248 (1989); the disclosure of these publications beingincorporated herein by reference.

The contact angle of sebum with skin, which has been treated with thecompositions of the present invention, can be measured using various invivo techniques. For example, a suitable site on the skin (such as theface, back of the hand, forearm, etc.) can be cleansed and treated withthe instant emulsion composition (about 2 mg/cm²), followed byapplication of a single drop of sebum (about 5-10 μL). After about oneminute, the contact angle of the sebum with the skin can be directlydetermined using a macroscope at 25x magnification (Scopeman® MS503,available from Moritex U.S.A., Inc., San Diego, Calif.), oralternatively can be determined from a video image or photograph.Preferred contact angles for sebum with skin treated with the emulsionsof the instant invention are preferably between 0° and about 15°, morepreferably between 0° and about 12°, and most preferably between 0° andabout 10°.

Sebum Migration

Sebum migration and the effects of skin care products on this migrationcan be measured by various in vivo techniques. For example, a suitablesite on the skin (such as the face, back of the hand, forearm, etc.) canbe cleansed and treated with the instant emulsion composition (about 2mg/cm²), followed by application of a single drop of sebum (about 1-10μL). The spreading of the sebum can be determined by directly measuringthe surface area of the sebum as a function of time or from video imagesor photographs of the sebum recorded at appropriate time intervals. Theareas can be measured either in absolute units (e.g. cm², mm²) or inother relative units (e.g. the number of pixels on a video cathode raytube). A pixel is a single element which constitutes an image on a videocathode ray tube screen.

For example, for determining sebum migration rates it is foundparticularly convenient to measure the rate as the change in area inpixels per unit time in minutes. The rate of sebum migration is mostconveniently reported in pixels per 5 minute time interval.

The preferred rate of sebum migration for the emulsions of the instantinvention is greater than about 8300 pixels over the period from 0 to 5minutes. A more preferred rate is greater than about 8500 pixels overthe period from 0 to 5 minutes. An even more preferred rate is greaterthan about 8700 pixels over the period from 0 to 5 minutes. An evenfurther preferred rate is greater than about 9000 pixels over the periodfrom 0 to 5 minutes. The most preferred rate is greater than about 9500pixels over the period from 0 to 5 minutes.

Emulsions

The emulsion compositions of the present invention are of theoil-in-water type since these provide better aesthetic properties. Theemulsions are readily prepared using art-recognized principles andmethodologies in mixing the ingredients together and in choosing thetype of mixing equipment to be used. Depending upon the choice ofingredients, the formulation has a semi-solid cream-like consistencywhich can be packaged in a plastic squeeze tube or glass jar or it has alotion type consistency which can be packaged in a plastic squeezecontainer or bottle. The container can include a flow-type cap orpump-type dispenser.

The essential components of these emulsions include the following.

Essential Components Cationic Surfactant

An essential component of the present compositions is a cationicsurfactant which is present in the emulsion from about 0.01% to about5%, more preferably from about 0.01% to about 2%, and most preferablyfrom about 0.01% to about 1%. McCutcheon's, Detergents and Emulsifiers,North American Edition (1986), published by Allured PublishingCorporation, which is incorporated herein by reference, includes a broadlisting of cationic surfactants.

Examples of cationic surfactants include distearyl dimethyl ammoniumchloride, dilauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, N-cetyl pyridiniumbromide, alkyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium cyclohexyl sulfamate,dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride, alkyl triethanolammoniumchloride, dimethyl di(hydrogenated tallow) ammonium chloride,Quaternium-15, bis(hydrogenated tallow alkyl)dimethyl methyl sulfates,γ-gluconamidopropyldimethyl-2-hydroxyethyl ammonium chloride, decyldimethyl octyl ammonium chloride, dimethyl 2-hydroxyethylminkamidopropyl ammonium chloride, Quaternium-18 Methosulfate,isododecylbenzyl triethanolammonium chloride, cocamidopropyl dimethylacetamido ammonium chloride, Quaternium-45, Quaternium-51,Quaternium-52, Quaternium-53, bis(N-hydroxyethyl-2-oleyl imidazoliniumchloride) polyethylene glycol 600, lanolin/isosteramidopropyl ethyldimethyl ammonium ethosulfate, bis[amidopropyl-N,N-dimethyl-N-ethyl)ammonium methosulfate] dimer acid, Quaternium-62, Quaternium-63,stearamidopropyl dimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, andQuaternium-71. These hydrophobic cationic surfactants can be used eithersingly or as a combination of one or more materials.

The preferred hydrophobic cationic surfactants for use in this inventionare the halide salts of N,N,N-trialkylaminoalkylene gluconamides havingthe formula: ##STR1## wherein R=alkyl, X=Cl⁻ or Br⁻, and n is an integerfrom 2 to 4.

Most preferred for use in this invention is γ-gluconamidopropyl dimethyl2-hydroxyethyl ammonium chloride (CTFA designation Quaternium-22) whichhas the following structure: ##STR2## This compound is commerciallyavailable as a free-flowing, 60% aqueous solution from Van Dyk, Inc.(Belleville, N.J.) under the trademark Ceraphyl® 60. U.S. Pat. No.3,855,290 to Zak et al., issued Dec. 17, 1974; U.S. Pat. No. 3,766,267to Zak et al., issued Oct. 16, 1973; and U.S. Pat. No. 4,534,964 toHerstein et al., issued Aug. 13, 1985, which are all incorporated hereinby reference, further describe Quaternium-22 and its use in personalcare products.

Non-Volatile Organopolysiloxane

Another essential component is a non-volatile organopolysiloxane whichis present from 0.05%-10%, more preferably from 0.1%-5%, and mostpreferably from 0.1%-1%. The non-volatile silicone component issubstantive to the skin and aids in redistributing sebum across thesurface of the skin. Examples of such non-volatile silicones includedimethicone copolyol; dimethylpolysiloxane; diethylpolysiloxane; highmolecular weight dimethicone (average molecular weight from about200,000 to about 1,000,000 and, preferably, from about 300,000 to about600,000) which can have various end-terminating groups such as hydroxyl,lower C₁ -C₃ alkyl, lower C₁ -C₃ alkoxy and the like; mixed C₁ -C₃ alkylpolysiloxane (e.g., methylethylpolysiloxane); phenyl dimethicone andother aryl dimethicones; and dimethiconol; and mixtures thereof.Preferred is dimethiconol which is a dimethyl silicone polymerterminated with hydroxyl groups. Dimethiconol is available as Q2-1401Fluid, a solution of 13 percent ultra-high-viscosity dimethiconol involatile cyclomethicone fluid as a carrier, and Q2-1403 Fluid, asolution of ultra-high-viscosity dimethiconol fluid in dimethicone (bothsold by Dow Corning Corporation).

Carboxylic Acid Copolymer

Another essential component of the compositions of the present inventionis a carboxylic acid copolymer. These copolymers consist essentially ofa colloidally water-soluble polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with apolyalkenyl polyether of a polyhydric alcohol, and optionally anacrylate ester or a polyfunctional vinylidene monomer.

Preferred copolymers useful in the present invention are polymers of amonomeric mixture containing 95.9 to 98.8 weight percent of anolefinically unsaturated carboxylic monomer selected from the groupconsisting of acrylic, methacrylic and ethacrylic acids; about 1 toabout 3.5 weight percent of an acrylate ester of the formula: ##STR3##wherein R is an alkyl radical containing 10 to 30 carbon atoms and R¹ ishydrogen, methyl or ethyl; and 0.1 to 0.6 weight percent of apolymerizable cross-linking polyalkenyl polyether of a polyhydricalcohol containing more than one alkenyl ether group per moleculewherein the parent polyhydric alcohol contains at least 3 carbon atomsand at least 3 hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, these polymers contain from about 96 to about 97.9 weightpercent of acrylic acid and from about 2.5 to about 3.5 weight percentof acrylic esters wherein the alkyl group contains 12 to 22 carbonatoms, and R¹ is methyl, most preferably the acrylate ester is stearylmethacrylate. Preferably, the amount of crosslinking polyalkenylpolyether monomer is from about 0.2 to 0.4 weight percent. The preferredcrosslinking polyalkenyl polyether monomers are allyl pentaerythritol,trimethylolpropane diallylether or allyl sucrose. These polymers arefully described in U.S. Pat. No. 4,509,949, to Huang et al., issued Apr.5, 1985, this patent being incorporated herein by reference.

Other preferred copolymers useful in the present invention are thepolymers which contain at least two monomeric ingredients, one being amonomeric olefinically-unsaturated carboxylic acid, and the other beinga polyalkenyl, polyether of a polyhydric alcohol. Additional monomericmaterials may be present in the monomeric mixture if desired, even inpredominant proportion.

The first monomeric ingredient useful in the production of thesecarboxylic polymers are the olefinically-unsaturated carboxylic acidscontaining at least one activated carbon-to-carbon olefinic double bond,and at least one carboxyl group. The preferred carboxylic monomers arethe acrylic acids having the general structure ##STR4## wherein R² is asubstituent selected from the class consisting of hydrogen, halogen, andthe cyanogen (--C═N) groups, monovalent alkyl radicals, monovalentalkaryl radicals and monovalent cycloaliphatic radicals. Of this class,acrylic, methacrylic, and ethacrylic acid are most preferred. Anotheruseful carboxylic monomer is maleic anhydride or the acid. The amount ofacid used will be from about 95.5 to about 98.9 weight percent of thetotal monomers used. More preferably the range will be from about 96 toabout 97.9 weight percent.

The second monomeric ingredient useful in the production of thesecarboxylic polymers are the polyalkenyl polyethers having more than onealkenyl ether grouping per molecule. The most useful possess alkenylgroups in which an olefinic double bond is present attached to aterminal methylene grouping, CH₂ ═C<.

The additional monomeric materials which may be present in the polymersinclude polyfunctional vinylidene monomers containing at least twoterminal CH₂ < groups, including for example, butadiene, isoprene,divinyl benzene, divinyl naphthalene, allyl acrylates, and the like.These polymers are fully described in U.S. Pat. No. 2,798,053, to Brown,H. P., issued July 2, 1957, this patent being incorporated herein byreference.

Examples of carboxylic acid copolymers useful in the present inventioninclude Carbomer 934, Carbomer 941, Carbomer 950, Carbomer 951, Carbomer954, Carbomer 980, Carbomer 981, Carbomer 1342, and Acrylates/C₁₀₋₃₀Alkyl Acrylate Cross Polymers (available as Carbopol 934, Carbopol 941,Carbopoly 950, Carbopol 951, Carbopol 954, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 981,Carbopol 1342, and the Pemulen Series, respectively, from B. F.Goodrich).

Other carboxylic acid copolymers useful in the present invention includesodium salts of acrylic acid/acrylamide copolymers sold by the HoechstCelanese Corporation under the trademark of Hostaceren PN73. Alsoincluded are the hydrogel polymers sold by lipo Chemicals Inc. under thetrademark of HYPAN hydrogels. These hydrogels consist of crystallineplicks of nitrites on a C-C backbone with various other pendant groupssuch as carboxyls, amides, and amidines. An example would include HYPANSA100 H, a polymer powder available from Lipo Chemical.

Neutralizing agents suitable for use in neutralizing acidic groupcontaining copolymers herein include sodium hydroxide, potassiumhydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine,triethanolamine, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediame (available as theQuadrol® series from BASF), tris, arginine, triisopropylamine andlysine.

The carboxylic acid copolymers can be used individually or as a mixtureof two or more polymers and comprise from about 0.025% to about 0.75%,preferably from about 0.05% to about 0.25%, and most preferably fromabout 0.075% to about 0.175% of the compositions of the presentinvention.

For the present invention the weight ratio of carboxylic acid copolymerto cationic surfactant is preferably from about 1:10 to about 10:1.

Humectant The last essential component of the compositions of thepresent invention is a humectant. A variety of humectants can beemployed in the compositions of the present invention and can be presentat a level of from about 1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 2%to about 8% and most preferably from about 3% to about 5%. Thesehumectants include urea; guanidine; glycolic acid and glycolate salts(e.g. ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium); lactic acid and lactatesalts (e.g. ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium); polyhydroxyalcohols such as sorbitol, glycerin, hexanetriol, propylene glycol,hexylene glycol and the like; polyethylene glycol; sugars and starches;sugar and starch derivatives (e.g. alkoxylated glucose); D-panthenol;hyaluronic acid; lactamide monoethanolamine; acetamide monoethanolamine;and mixtures thereof.

Preferred humectants for used in the compositions of the presentinvention are the C₃ -C₆ diols and triols. Especially preferred is thetriol, glycerin.

Optional Components

Each of the water and oil phases of the oil-in-water emulsion maycontain optional components, which can comprise a wide variety ofcosmetic and pharmacologic additives. Typical of such optionalcomponents are:

Sunscreens A wide variety of one or more conventional sunscreeningagents are suitable for use in the present invention. Segarin, et al.,at Chapter VIII, pages 189 et seq., of Cosmetics Science and Technology,disclose numerous suitable agents. Specific suitable sunscreening agentsinclude, for example: ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate (available as ParsolMCX from Givaudan Corporation), p-Aminobenzoic acid, its salts and itsderivatives (ethyl, isobutyl, glyceryl esters; p-dimethylaminobenzoicacid; 2-ethylhexyl N,N-di-methylaminobenzoate); Anthranilates (i.e.,o-aminobenzoates; methyl, octyl, amyl, menthyl, phenyl, benzyl,phenylethyl, linalyl, terpinyl, and cyclohexenyl esters); Salicylates(octyl, amyl, phenyl, benzyl, menthyl, glyceryl, and dipropyleneglycolesters); Cinnamic acid derivatives (menthyl and benzyl esters, -phenylcinnamonitrile; butyl cinnamoyl pyruvate); Dihydroxycinnamic acidderivatives (umbelliferone, methylumbelliferone,methylaceto-umbelliferone); Trihydroxycinnamic acid derivatives(esculetin, methylesculetin, daphnetin, and the glucosides, esculin anddaphnin); Hydrocarbons (diphenylbutadiene, stilbene); Dibenzalacetoneand benzalacetophenone; Naphtholsulfonates (sodium salts of 2-naphthol3,6-disulfonic and of 2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acids);Dihydroxy-naphthoic acid and its salts; o- andp-Hydroxybiphenyldisulfonates; Coumarin derivatives (7-hydroxy,7-methyl, 3-phenyl); Diazoles (2-acetyl-3-bromoindazole, phenylbenzoxazole, methyl naphthoxazole, various aryl benzothiazoles); Quininesalts (bisulfate, sulfate, chloride, oleate, and tannate); Quinolinederivatives (8-hydroxyquinoline salts, 2-phenylquinoline); Hydroxy- ormethoxy-substituted benzophenones; Uric and vilouric acids; Tannic acidand its derivatives (e.g., hexaethylether); (Butyl carbityl) (6-propylpiperonyl) ether; Hydroquinone; Benzophenones (Oxybenzene,Sulisobenzone, Dioxybenzone, Benzoresorcinol,2,2',4,4'-Tetrahydroxybenzophenone2,2'-Dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone, Octabenzone;4-Isopropyldibenzoylmethane; Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane; Octocrylene;4-isopropyl-di-benzoylmethane; and camphor derivatives such as methylbenzylidene or benzylidene camphor; and mixtures thereof. Othersunscreens include the solid physical sunblocks such as titanium dioxide(micronized titanium dioxide, 0.03 microns), zinc oxide, silica, ironoxide and the like. Without being limited by theory, it is believed thatthese inorganic materials provide a sunscreening benefit throughreflecting, scattering, and absorbing harmful UV, visible, and infraredradiation.

A safe and photoprotectively effective amount of sunscreen may be usedin the sunscreen compositions of the present invention. By "safe andphotoprotectively" is meant an amount sufficient to providephotoprotection when the composition is applied, but not so much as tocause any side effects or skin reactions. Generally, the sunscreen agentmay comprise from about 0.5% to about 20% of the composition. Anadditional sunscreen agent may comprise from about 0.5% to about 30%,preferably from about 0.5% to about 20%, of the composition. Exactamounts will vary depending upon the sunscreen chosen and the desiredSun Protection Factor (SPF). Particularly useful is the sunscreenethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate either alone or in combination with thephysical sunscreen titanium dioxide.

SPF is a commonly used measure of photoprotection of a sunscreen againsterythema. This number is derived from another parameter, the minimalerythemal dose (MED). MED is defined as the "lease exposure dose at aspecified wavelength that will elicit a delayed erythema response". TheMED indicates the amount of energy reaching the skin and theresponsiveness of the skin to the radiation. The SPF of a particularphotoprotector is obtained by dividing the MED of protected skin by theMED of unprotected skin. The higher the SPF, the more effective theagent in preventing sunburn. The SPF value tells how many times longer aperson can stay in the sun with use of the sunscreen (compared to thesame person with unprotected skin) before that person will experience IMED. For example, utilizing a sunscreen with an SPF of 6 will allow anindividual to stay in the sun six times longer before receiving 1 MED.As the SPF value of a sunscreen increases, the less chance exists fordevelopment of tanning of the skin. Commercially available sunscreeningproducts have SPF values ranging from 2 to 50.

Also particularly useful either alone or along withethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate are sunscreens such as those disclosed inU.S. Pat. No. 4,937,370, to Sabatelli, issued June 26, 1990; andSabatelli et al., U.S. patent application Ser. No. 054,046 (filed June2, 1987). The sunscreening agents disclosed therein have, in a singlemolecule, two distinct chromophore moieties which exhibit differentultra-violet radiation absorption spectra. One of the chromophoremoieties absorbs predominantly in the UVB radiation range and the otherabsorbs strongly in the UVA radiation range.

These sunscreening agents provide higher efficacy, broader UVabsorption, lower skin penetration and longer lasting efficacy relativeto conventional sunscreens.

Preferred members of this class of sunscreening agents are4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methylaminobenzoic acid ester of2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone; N,N-di-(2-ethylhexyl)-4-aminobenzoic acidester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane; 4-N,N(2-ethylhexyl)methylaminobenzoic acid ester with 4-hydroxydibenzoylmethane;4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methylaminobenzoic acid ester of2-hydroxy-4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)benzophenone; 4-N,N-(2-ethylhexyl)methylaminobenzoic acid ester of 4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)dibenzoylmethane;N-N-di-(2-ethylhexyl)-4-aminobenzoic acid ester of2-hydroxy-4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)benzophenone, andN,N-di-(2-ethylhexyl)4-aminobenzoic acid ester of4-(2-hydroxyethoxy)dibenzoylmethane and mixtures thereof.

Volatile Silicone Fluids

Volatile silicone oils useful in the compositions of the presentinvention are preferably cyclic. The following formula illustratescyclic volatile polydimethylsiloxanes useful in the compositionsdisclosed herein: ##STR5## wherein n equals about 3 to about 7. Linearpolydimethylsiloxanes contain from about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms permolecule and have the following general formula:

    (CH.sub.3).sub.3 Si-O-[Si(CH.sub.3).sub.2 -O].sub.n --Si(CH.sub.3).sub.3

wherein n equals about 1 to about 7. Linear volatile silicone materialsgenerally have viscosities of less than about 5 centistokes at 25° C.while cyclic materials typically have viscosities of less than about 10centistokes. A description of various volatile silicone oils is found inTodd, et al., "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics", Cosmetics &Toiletries. 91. pages 27-32 (1976), the disclosures of which areincorporated by reference herein in their entirety.

Examples of preferred volatile silicone oils useful herein include: DowCorning 344, Dow Corning 345, and Dow Corning 200 (manufactured by DowCorning Corp.); Silicone 7207 and Silicone 7158 (manufactured by theUnion Carbide Corp.); SF 1202 (manufactured by General Electric); andSWS-03314 (manufactured by SWS Silicones, Inc.). Cyclomethicone,dimethicone, decamethylcyclohexasioxane, hexamethyldisioloxane,simethicone, and mixtures thereof.

Emollients

The compositions of the present invention preferably comprise at leastone emollient. Preferred emollients are volatile silicone oils,non-volatile emollients, and the highly branched hydrocarbons known asthe Permethyl 99 through 108A series (available from PermethylCorporation) and mixtures thereof. The compositions of the presentinvention more preferably comprise at least one volatile silicone oilwhich functions as a liquid emollient, or especially in a mixture ofvolatile silicone oils and non-volatile emollients. The term "volatile",as used herein, refers to those materials which have a measurable vaporpressure at ambient temperature.

The present compositions also preferably contain one or morenon-volatile emollients. Such materials include fatty acid and fattyalcohol esters hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof. Emollients among thoseuseful herein are described in 1 Cosmetics, Science and Technology27-104 (M. Balsam and E. Sagarin, Ed.; 1972), and U.S. Pat. No.4,202,879, to Shelton, issued May 13, 1980 (both incorporated byreference herein).

Non-polar fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters useful herein as anemollient material include, for example, di-isopropyl adipate, isopropylmyristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl hexyl palmitate, isodecylneopentanoate C₁₂ -C₁₅ alcohol benzoate, diethyl hexyl maleate, PPG 14butyl ether and PPG-2 myristyl ether propionate. Hydrocarbons such asisohexadecane (e.g., Permethyl 101A supplied by Presperse) are alsouseful as emollients.

The emollients typically comprise in total from about 1% to about 50%,preferably from about 1% to about 25%, and more preferably from about 1%to about 10% by weight of the compositions of the present invention.

Waxes

An optional component of the compositions herein is a wax. Useful esterwaxes include C₁₀ -C₄₀ alcohols esterfied with C₁₀ -C₄₀ fatty acid,diesters of C₁₀ -C₄₀ fatty acid where the alcohol is propylene glycol,ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol,polyglycerin, pentaerythritol tri- or tetra- esters of C₁ -C₄₀ fattyacids, C₁₀ -C₄₀ fatty acids of sorbitan triesters, C₁₀ -C₄₀ fatty acidsof sucrose polyesters having 3-8 moles of substitution, myristylmyristate, paraffin, synthetic waxes such as Fischer-Tropsche waxes,microcrystalline waxes, castor wax, behenyl behenrate and myristylpropionate and mixtures thereof. Useful diester waxes include SynchrowaxERL-C (available from Croda) and propylene glycol diester waxesincluding ethylene glycol distearate and glycol distearate.

Pharmaceutical Actives

Pharmaceutical actives useful in the present invention include anychemical material or compound suitable for topical administration whichinduces any desired local or systemic effect. Such substances include,but are not limited to antibiotics, antiviral agents, analgesics (e.g.ibuprofen, acetyl salicylic acid, naproxen, and the like),antihistamines, antiinflammatory agents, antipruritics, antipyretics,anesthetic agents, diagnostic agents, hormones, antifungals,antimicrobials, cutaneous growth enhancers, pigment modulators,antiproliferatives, antipsoriatics, retinoids, anti-acne medicaments(e.g. benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, etc.), antineoplastics agents,phototherapeutic agents, and keratolytics (e.g. resorcinol, salicylicacid), and mixtures thereof. These pharmaceutical actives can beincorporated in the emulsions preferably from about 0.1% to about 20%.

Vitamins

Various vitamins may also be included in the compositions of the presentinvention. For example, Vitamin A, and derivatives thereof, ascorbicacid, Vitamin B, biotin, panthothenic acid, Vitamin D, and mixturesthereof may be used. Vitamin E, tocopherol acetate and derivatives mayalso be used.

Other Optional Components

A variety of additional ingredients may be added to the emulsioncompositions of the present invention. These additional ingredientsinclude various polymers for aiding the film-forming properties andsubstantivity of the formulation, preservatives for maintaining theantimicrobial integrity of the compositions, antioxidants, and agentssuitable for aesthetic purposes such as fragrances, pigments, andcolorings.

EXAMPLES

The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodimentswithin the scope of the present invention. The examples are given solelyfor the purpose of illustration and are not to be construed aslimitations of the present invention, as many variations thereof arepossible without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention.

EXAMPLE I

A leave-on facial emulsion composition containing a cationic hydrophobicsurfactant is prepared by combining the following components utilizingconventional mixing techniques.

    ______________________________________                                        Ingredient            % Weight                                                ______________________________________                                        Water                 qs                                                      Glycerin              3.00                                                    Cetyl Palmitate       3.00                                                    Cetyl Alcohol         1.26                                                    Quaternium-22         1.00                                                    Glyceryl Monohydroxy Stearate                                                                       0.74                                                    Dimethicone           0.60                                                    Stearic Acid          0.55                                                    Octyldodecyl Myristate                                                                              0.30                                                    Potassium Hydroxide   0.20                                                    Carbomer 1342          0.125                                                  Tetrasodium EDTA      0.10                                                    DMDM Hydantoin and Iodopropynyl                                                                     0.10                                                    Butyl Carbamate                                                               Carbomer 951           0.075                                                  ______________________________________                                    

This emulsion is useful for providing control of the distribution ofsebum on the skin.

Use of an amount of this composition sufficient to deposit about 2.0mg/cm² on the skin could give a contact angle of 10° between sebum andskin.

The rate of sebum migration for the emulsion would be greater than 9500pixels over the period from 0-5 minutes.

EXAMPLE II

A leave-on facial emulsion composition containing both a cationichydrophobic surfactant and a non-volatile organopolysiloxane is preparedby combining the following components utilizing conventional mixingtechniques.

    ______________________________________                                        Ingredient            % Weight                                                ______________________________________                                        Water                 qs                                                      Glycerin              3.00                                                    Cetyl Palmitate       3.00                                                    Cetyl Alcohol         1.26                                                    Quaternium-22         1.00                                                    Glyceryl Monohydroxy Stearate                                                                       0.74                                                    Dimethicone           0.60                                                    Stearic Acid          0.55                                                    Cyclomethicone and Dimethiconol                                                                     0.50                                                    Octyldodecyl Myristate                                                                              0.30                                                    Potassium Hydroxide   0.20                                                    Carbomer 1342          0.125                                                  Tetrasodium EDTA      0.10                                                    DMDM Hydantoin and Iodopropynyl                                                                     0.10                                                    Butyl Carbamate                                                               Carbomer 951           0.075                                                  ______________________________________                                    

This emulsion is useful for providing control of the distribution ofsebum on the skin.

Use of an amount of this composition sufficient to deposit about 2.0mg/cm² on the skin would give a contact angle of 10° between sebum andskin.

The rate of sebum migration for the emulsion would be greater than 9500pixels over the period from 0-5 minutes.

What is claimed is:
 1. A leave-on facial emulsion composition,substantially free from fats and oils and anionic surfactants,comprising:(a) from about 0.01% to about 5% of a cationic surfactant;(b) from about 0.01% to about 5% of one or more of a carboxylic acidcopolymer; (c) from about 1% to about 10% of a humectant; and (d) acosmetically acceptable carrier;wherein said composition provides acontact angle between sebum and skin from 0° to about 10°, and aspreading index for sebum migration greater than about 8300 pixels overthe time period from 0-5 minutes.
 2. An emulsion as in claim 1 whereinthe cationic surfactant is an N,N,N-trialkylaminoalkylene gluconamide ofthe formula ##STR6## wherein R═alkyl, X═Cl⁻ or Br⁻, and n is an integerfrom 2 to
 4. 3. An emulsion as in claim 2 wherein the cationicsurfactant is γ-gluconamidopropyl dimethyl 2-hydroxyethyl ammoniumchloride.
 4. An emulsion as in claim 3 wherein the humectant is a C₃ -C₆diol or triol.
 5. An emulsion as in claim 4 wherein the humectant isglycerin.
 6. An emulsion as in claim 5 wherein the carboxylic acidcopolymer is selected from the group consisting of Carbomer 941,Carbomer 951, Carbomer 980, Carbomer 981, Carbomer 1342, and mixturesthereof.
 7. An emulsion as in claim 6 wherein the weight ratio ofcarboxylic acid copolymer to gluconamide is from about 1:10 to about10:1.
 8. An emulsion as in claim 1 wherein said emulsion furthercomprises from about 0.1% to about 20% of a pharmaceutical active.
 9. Anemulsion as in claim 1 wherein said emulsion further comprises fromabout 0.5% to about 20% of a sunscreening agent.
 10. An emulsion as inclaim 9 wherein said sunscreening agent is selected from the groupconsisting of ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, and2-ethylhexyl N,N-dimethylaminobenzoate.
 11. An emulsion as in claim 10wherein said sunscreening agent is ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate.
 12. Anemulsion as in claim wherein said emulsion further comprises from about0.5% to about 30% titanium dioxide.
 13. A method for controlling sebumdistribution on facial skin, said method comprising topically applyingto the facial skin an effective amount of an emulsion compositionaccording to claim
 1. 14. A method for controlling sebum distribution onfacial skin, said method comprising topically applying to the facialskin an effective amount of an emulsion composition according to claim2.
 15. A method for controlling sebum distribution on facial skin, saidmethod comprising topically applying to the facial skin an effectiveamount of an emulsion composition according to claim
 3. 16. A method forcontrolling sebum distribution on facial skin, said method comprisingtopically applying to the facial skin an effective amount of an emulsioncomposition according to claim
 5. 17. A method for controlling sebumdistribution on facial skin, said method comprising topically applyingto the facial skin an effective amount of an emulsion compositionaccording to claim
 7. 18. A method for controlling sebum distribution onfacial skin, said method comprising topically applying to the facialskin an effective amount of an emulsion composition according to claim8.
 19. A method for controlling sebum distribution on facial skin, saidmethod comprising topically applying to the facial skin an effectiveamount of an emulsion composition according to claim
 9. 20. A method forcontrolling sebum distribution on facial skin, said method comprisingtopically applying to the facial skin an effective amount of an emulsioncomposition according to claim 12.